Spike It Cowl - Free Crochet Pattern

This is one of my favorite crochet projects yet. I love the texture, reversibility and how easy it is to work up. I made two versions; the varigated short version (13.5" x 7" after blocking and seaming) which is made from superwash DK in a OOAK colorway 'Ying and Yang'. The long version (6.5" x 26" after blocking and seaming) is made with Tibet yarn, which i would consider an aran/bulky weight. This is a wool/acrylic/viscose blend.

Using different yarn weights:
The pattern was written for dk weight yarn, however it's very simple to adjust for any other weight. Gauge is really not that important, your aim should be to get a fabric that you like. Use a hook  several sizes bigger than recommended to make a fabric that has more drape. For reference, the green version is made with an aran/bulky weight and used a P hook. I began with a chaining 15. I also strongly suggest to make a gauge swatch with the yarn you plan to use, specially if using other weights not mentioned here. Once your swatch is complete, you will measure the stitches per inch and multiply that into how wide you want the cowl to be. Chain the appropriate number (*always chain an odd number*) and continue to follow the pattern.

Materials:

DK weight yarn

Size J hook (6mm)

Pair of scissors

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Stitches Used:

Chain
Single Crochet
Spike Stitch (insert the hook below the two loops/underneath the stitch and pull through, finish off single crochet)
Seaming

Gauge:
1" = 3.5 stitches in SC

Notes:
This project is made flat. It's then blocked and seamed.

Pattern:
1- Chain 25.
2- SC in 2nd loop, and sc all. Chain 1, turn. = 24
3- Skip the 1st stitch. [1 SC, 1 spike stitch] repeat until the last stitch. SC(refer to pictures for where to place the last SC stitch). Chain 1 and turn.
Repeat row 3 until desired length. Leave tail long enough to seam together.

Finishing:

Seam together; can be blocked before or after.

Centipede ~ Free Knitting Pattern

While browsing through a knitting stitch dictionary, I ran into this stitch. I found it fascinating, easy, interesting, and intricate looking without it being so. It called out to me and had to become something! I kind of refer to it as the sister to the 'Offset Cowl', which is similar in many ways. Gauge is not extremely important, it would work out beautifully in other weights of yarn as long as you're getting a fabric you like. It's very easy to adjust length by knitting a longer or shorter project before casting off.  Enjoy!

The short version pictured is using a DK weight superwash yarn in a OOAK colorway I dyed quite some time ago called 'Purblue'. This was a little thicker than the red yarn, all thought both are a DK weight. Dimensions after blocking and seaming: 12" x 8"

The long versions is made using Cherry Tree Hill Yarn Supersock DK Selects in the 'Very Berry' colorway. Dimensions after blocking and seaming: 20" x 7.5"

Materials:

DK weight yarn  

4.5 mm needles (or needles needed to get gauge)

2 stitch markers

Tapestry needle to seam and weave in ends

Gauge:

1" = 3.5 stitches in stockinette stitch

Stitches Used:

Cast on

Knit

Purl

Cast off

Notes:

This project is worked back and forth flat, and is seamed together once complete.

All right side rows(odd rows) are the same throughout the pattern.

Pattern:

Cast on 36

Row 1- Knit 4, place marker(PM), knit to last 4 stitches, PM, knit to end of row

Row 2- Knit to marker. [Purl 4, knit 2] x4 times total. Purl 4, knit to end of row

Row 3- Knit all. Repeat for every odd row throughout the pattern.

Row 4-11- Repeat rows 2-3 for 4 additional times ending with an odd row 

Row 12- Knit to marker. Purl 1, [knit 2, purl 4] x4 times total. Knit 2, purl 1, knit to end of row.

Row 13- Repeat row 3.

Row 14-21- Repeat row 12-13 for 4 additional times ending with an odd row 

Repeat row 2-21 until desired length. Bind off, leaving tail long enough to seam together. 

Finishing:

Seam together; can be blocked before or after.

1-2-3 Fingerless Gloves ~ Free Knit Pattern

These simple fingerless gloves are made with 1x1, 2x1 and 3x1 rib hence the name. The pattern came up as i wanted to gift my son's teachers something they can use for the end of the school year. Enjoy!

Materials

Worsted weight  yarn

3.25 mm needles (or needles needed to get gauge. This is worked in the round so circular or double ended needles are required)

2 stitch markers

Stitch holder or waste yarn(to hold live stitches for the thumb)

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Stitches Used

Cast on

Knit

Purl

Rib 1x1, 2x2 and 3x1
Increase (INC)
Decrease (DEC)

Cast on stitches mid-row

Gauge

1" = 4 stitches in stockinette stitch

Pattern

Notes:
This pattern is made IN THE ROUND from the bottom up(wrist to fingertips)

- Cast on 32
-Without twisting foundation, begin working in the round for 8 rows in 2x2 rib
-Work 3x1 rib for 3 rows
-In the next row work 3x1 rib for 15 stitches, place marker(PM), knit/purl the next 2 stitches, PM, work the rest of the row in pattern
-[[Knit to marker, INC next stitch, knit until 1 stitch before marker, INC, work the rest of the row in pattern(3x1 rib)
-Knit in pattern to marker, knit all stitches between the makers, work the rest of the row in pattern]] Repeat these two rows until there is a total of 14 stitches in the thumb gusset(end with a knit row)
- Knit in pattern to marker. Slide thumb gusset stitches into a stitch holder or waste yarn. Cast on 2 stitches in its place. Knit to end of row in pattern.
-[[Knit row in pattern]] Repeat this row 4 additional times
-Work 2x2 rib for 8 rows.
-Cast off, weave in ends

Thumb

Notes:
 Two loops will be picked up from casted on stitches to avoid gaps.

-Slip live stitches on needles. Attach yarn and begin working in 1x1 until the gap connecting to the body of the glove. Pick up two loops where the 2 stitches were casted on for the body. DEC one stitch before and one stitch after the gap in pattern. 
- 1x1 rib for additional 6 rows.
-Cast off and weave in ends.

Offset Cowl - Free Knit Pattern

Gauge is not too essential for this project, what matters most is getting a fabric you like. This is a very easy pattern to memorize and can be made to any length. I made the cowl shown with Merino Silk (70%/30%) by Cherry Tree Hill Yarn in the 'Summer's End' colorway and used a full skein( 225 yards/ 100 grams). Flat dimensions are as follows(after being seamed together and blocked): 24" x 8".

Materials:

DK weight yarn  

4.5 mm needles (or needles needed to get gauge)

2 stitch markers

Tapestry needle to seam and weave in ends

Stitches Used:

Cast on
Knit
Purl

Yarn Over - YO
Knit two together - K2tog

Cast off

Gauge:
1" = 3.5 stitches in stockinette stitch

Notes:
This project is worked back and forth flat, and is seamed together once complete.
All wrong side rows(even rows) are the same throughout the pattern.


Cowl:
Cast on 30
Row 1- Knit 4, place marker(PM), knit to last 4 stitches, PM, knit to end of row
Row 2- Knit to marker. Purl to marker. Knit to end of row
Row 3- Knit to marker [Knit 3, YO, K2tog] x4 times total. Knit to end of row
Row 4- Repeat row 2 for every wrong side row through the rest of the pattern
Row 5- Knit all stitches
Row 7- Repeat row 2
Row 8- Knit to marker [YO, K2tog, knit 3] x4 times total. YO, K2tog, knit to end of row
Row 9- Repeat row 2
Row 10- Knit all stitches
Row 11- Repeat row 2
Repeat row 3-11 until desired length; leave tail long enough to seam together. Bind off.

Finishing:
Block if desired before or after seaming. Seam together.

Dual Color Cozy or Yarn Bowl - Free Crochet Pattern

These are made specifically for the glass containers from the 3 wick candles from Bath and Body Works(what i currently am burning through the most), however many other places such as Walmart have similar sized candles(and they're great as well). I also use a couple as yarn bowls on their own. If made with a hook that's a size or two smaller than what's called for, they will even be firmer and hold their shape even better when used as bowls(they may not fit the glass containers anymore however, so beware).

Materials:

Worsted weight in main color, used for the bottom (A)

Worsted weight in contrasting color, used for the top/rim (B)

Size H hook (5mm)

Pair of scissors

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Stitches Used:

Chain
Slip Stitch
Half Double Crochet (HDC)
Double Crochet (HD)
Increasing (INC)
Finish off/sew in ends

Gauge:
1" = 3.5 stitches in HDC

Notes:
This project is made from the bottom up. Each row is finished by a slip stitch to the first stitch on that row and chaining 3 (which will count as the first stitch on the following row).

Pattern:
Begin with color A(this will be the bottom)
1- Chain 3. Slip stitch to first chain to make a loop. Chain 3(counts as first stitch) and make 9 additional HDCs inside the loop. Finish row with a slip stitch on the chain 3/1st stitch. -10
2- Chain 3(counts as the first DC). INC with 2 DC in each stitch. -20
Each row is finished by a slip stitch to the first stitch on that row and chaining 3 (which will count as the first stitch on the following row)
3- [1 DC, 1 INC] repeat until end of row -30
4- Note; HDC from now on. [2 HDC, 1 INC] repeat until end of row - 40
5-6(2 rows total)- HDC all -40
Change to color B
7-10(4 rows total) - HDC all -40
Finish off and sew in ends

Obi Cowl - Free Knitted Pattern

The Obi Cowl was originally inspired by a video game character wearing a kimono 😅. An Obi is the sash worn which often features a type of bow in the back which ties it on. Personalize yours by making your cowl longer/shorter(cast on an odd number of stitches so the pattern is maintained in seed stitch), ad a bow(or none or many), and change up the color combinations as you wish.  Enjoy!

Materials:

Worsted weight in main color (A)

Worsted weight in contrasting color for the bow (B)

4mm needles (or needles needed to get gauge)

2 stitch marker

Ruler/ Measuring tape
Pair of scissors

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Stitches Used:

Cast on
Knit
Purl

Seed Stitch (knit and purl stitch)

Cast off

Gauge:
1" = 3.5 stitches in seed stitch

Notes:
This pattern is worked in the round with seed stitch. The bow is made separately(not in the round) in stockinette stitch with a seed stitch border and then sewn on.

Cowl:
Cast on 79 stitches with color A
Join without twisting, place stitch marker before starting next row.
Work in seed stitch (alternate between one knit and one purl stitch) for 3"
Change to color B at the beginning of the next row and continue to work in seed stitch for 1.5"
Change to color A at the beginning of the next row and continue to work in seed stitch for 3"
Loosely cast off.
Weave in ends.

Bow:
Cast on 12 stitches with color B
Working back and forth work in seed stitch for 5 rows
Work 3 stitches in seed stitch. Place stitch marker. Knit the next 6 stitches(this portion will be worked in stockinette). Place stitch marker. Work the last 3 stitches in seed stitch.
Work seed stitch border and portion inside stitches in stockinette for approximately 3.5"
Work 5 rows in seed stitch.
Cast off.
Weave in ends.
Cinch bow in the middle and wrap with additional piece of yarn in color B about 5-6 times. Tie securely in the back(this will be hidden when sewn on).

Finishing:
Position bow on cowl covering jog section(where colors have been changed). Sew on all around with a long piece of yarn in color B. This will avoid the bow from getting distorted during wear.
Weave in tail

Pop Fingerless Gloves - Knit Version - Free Pattern

Reminiscent of pop art, these fingerless gloves feature a pop of color of your choice along with black and white stripes. The top portion of the glove is also made extra long to keep your fingers cozy; it's finished off with a stretchy bind off to fold over this portion when more mobility is needed. Enjoy!

Materials

Worsted weight  yarn in white, black and a color of your choice (color 'A')

3.5mm needles (or needles needed to get gauge)

2 stitch markers

Stitch holder or waste yarn

Ruler/ Measuring tape

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Stitches Used

This project is made in the round

Cast on

Knit

Purl

Rib 2x2 and 3x2

Cast on stitches mid-row

Stretchy Bind-off 

Gauge

1" = 4 stitches in stockinette stitch

Pattern

Notes:
This pattern is made from the bottom up(wrist to fingertips)
'Jog' refers to the beginning/end of each row where you change colors
Each black and what stripe is made of 2 rows in 2x3 rib

-With your chosen color of yarn(A), cast on 24 and work 2x2 rib for 1.5"
-Change to black yarn and work 3x2 ribbing for 2 rows (black stripe); carry yarn along jog
-Change to white yarn and work 3x2 ribbing for 2 rows (white stripe); carry yarn along jog
-Knit alternating black and white stripes in 3x2 ribbing for 11 stripes, about 4" (5.5" from cast on)
-Change color. Knit 11 stitches, place marker, INC the next two stitches(total of 4), place marker, knit to end of row. Stitches inside markers is the thumb gusset 
-Knit row
[[-Change color. Knit to marker, INC next stitch, knit until 1 stitch before marker, INC, knit to end of row
-Knit row]] Repeat these two rows while alternating stripes until there is a total of 14 stitches in the thumb gusset(end with a knit row)
-Change color. Knit to thumb gusset. Slide thumb gusset stitches into a stitch holder or waste yarn with tapestry needle. Cast on 2 stitches. Knit to end of row
-Knit row
-Continue to knit alternating stripes in 3x2 for an additional 5 stripes, to a total of about 2" from top of thumb gusset
-Change to color A. Knit in 2x2 ribbing for approximately 2.5-3"
-Cast off with via your chosen stretchy bind-off (facilitates folding down this portion for more mobility). My preferred stretchy bind of can be found here(youtube).
-Weave in ends

Thumb

-Attach color A to thumb gusset stitches and work in 2x2 rib for approximately 2".
-Cast off loosely.
-Weave in ends

Pop Fingerless Gloves - Crochet Version - Free Pattern

I liked the knit version of this pattern so much i had to make a crochet version. This pattern features the pop of color along with the black and white stripes that remind me of pop art so much. A very quick and easy project. Enjoy!

Materials

Worsted weight  yarn in white, black and a color of your choice (color 'A')

J (6mm) crochet hook (or hook needed to get gauge)

2 stitch markers or waste yarn

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Stitches Used

Chain
Single crochet (sc)
Half Double Crochet (hdc)
Slip Stitch (ss)
Increase (inc)
Decrease (dec)
Bind Off

Gauge

1" = 3 stitches in single crochet

Pattern

Notes: Please note key steps in the pattern(highlighted yellow)

This pattern is made from the bottom up(wrist to fingertips)

'Jog' refers to the beginning/end of each row where you change colors

Each black and what stripe is made of 2 single crochet rows

-With your chosen color of yarn(A), chain 19 very loosely

-Slip stitch to the beginning chain without twisting(the first and last chain become one, making a total of 18)

-Chain 2(this will always count as your first stitch), hdc in the next and rest of the stitches = 18

- SS into the 1st stitch; chain 2 (this will be how you end and start a new row throughout the pattern). hdc for the rest of the row =18

-hdc for an additional 2 rows for a total of 4 rows from foundation chain =18

-Change to black yarn. Sc all for 2 rows (black stripe); carry yarn along jog =18

(You can cut yarn A leaving a tail to sew in, we will not be using this color again until the top of the glove)

-Change to white yarn. Sc all for 2 rows (white stripe); carry yarn along jog =18

-Crochet alternating black and white stripes in single crochet for a total of 5 stripes (10 rows)

Thumb Gusset

-Change color. 8 sc,  place scrap yarn or stitch marker (between the 8th and 9th stitch). INC the next 2 stitches, place scrap yarn or stitch marker (between the last INC stitch and the next stitch), sc to end of row. Stitches inside markers make the thumb gusset. Move scrap yarn/stitch markers up with each row

-SC row

-[[-Change color. sc to marker, INC next stitch, sc until 1 stitch before marker, INC, slide marker, sc to end of row

-SC row]] Repeat these two rows while alternating stripes until there is a total of 10 stitches in the thumb gusset(end with a sc row) =26

-Change color. Sc until 1 before the stitch marker, INC. Skip over thumb gusset stitches. INC next stitch. Sc to end of row =18

-Sc row

-Change color. Sc 2 rows =18

-Change to color A. Hdc for a total of 5 rows = 18

-Finish off

Thumb

-Attach color A to the 5th stitch in the thumb gusset.  Chain 2 (will count as the first stitch). Hdc until one stitch before the white row increases(there are 2 increases in the white row). Dec stitch (1 black stitch and 1 white stitch). Dec next stitch (1 white stitch and 1 black stitch. This will close the gap). hdc for the rest of the row.

-Hdc 3 additional rows for a total of 4 in color A.

-Finish off

Cute Pig Amigurumi - Free Crochet Pattern

Hey all, i made up this cute amiguurmi pig pattern in honor of my son's second birthday who seems to be really be into pigs at the moment. Enjoy! 

The pattern is worked in the round, specially because of this i really suggest using a stitch marker(my favorite way to mark rows is with a different color of scrap yarn). A few parts for this pattern are also worked in a magic circle(if you're not familiar check out this great youtube tutorial) but you can easily begin with your preferred method.

Gauge is not important for this project but you do want to use a hook small enough that will create a tight fabric which won’t have holes between the stitches and the stuffing won’t show through. For the sample I used worsted weight yarn/red heart super saver and an F Size hook. You will of course need a type of stuffing, felt or whatever you want to use for the eyes and a needle to sew the pieces together(apart from yarn and hook).

Body
1. 6 in magic circle -6
2. Inc all -12
3. Inc all -24
4. (sc 3, inc 1) x 6 -30
5. (sc 4, inc 1) x6 -36
6. (sc 5, inc 1)x6  -42
7. sc all -42
8. sc all
9. sc all
10. sc all
11. sc all
12. sc all
13. sc all
14. sc all
15. sc all
16. sc all
17. sc all
18. sc all
19. sc all - 42
20. (sc 5, dec 1) x 6 -36
21. (sc 4, dec 1) x6 -30
22. (sc 3, dec 1) x 6 -24
Stuff body as you go
23. Dec all -12
24. Dec all -6
25. Dec until there is no longer a hole. Do not cut yarn and start on TAIL

Tail
1. Slip stitch the two center stitches closed and chain 5
2. Sc 3 in the 2nd chain from hook and sc 3 in each of the remainder 3 stitches
3. Finish off, leave tail to sew to the starting point

Nose
1. Chain 4. SC in the 2nd and 3rd stitch from the hook.
SC 3 in the last chain and turn to start working down the other side of the chain.
SC 1 in the next 2 stitches and slip stitch to the the beginning(the slip stitch forms the final stitch) -8
2. Chain 1 and sc in the back loop of each stitch. Slip stitch to the beginning stitch -8
3. Chain 1 and TURN working back on the row you just completed. SC in the next 5 stitches. Finish off, leaving tail to sew on body

Ears (make 2)
These are made flat, chain(as indicated) and turn on every row
1. Chain 2. SC 2 in the second stitch from hook -2
2. Chain 1 and increase all -4
3.Chain 1, SC all -4
4. Chain 1, SC all -4
5. Chain 1, SC all -4
6. Chain 1, SC all. Finish off and leave tail to sew on body. -4

Legs (make 4)
1. 6 in magic circle -6
2. (sc 2, 1 inc) x 2 -8 
3. SC all -8
4. SC all -8
5. (sc 2, 1 dec) x2 -6
Finish off and leave tail to sew on body

Finishing
Nose: Add details on nose(nostrils) and stuff lightly. Sew one row under the middle/starting point of the face with the wider rim of the nose on the bottom.
Ears: Sew on the 6th or 7th row away from the center/starting point of the face about 4 stitches apart
Legs: I didn't stuff the legs so they would lay flat. Sew to the bottom of the body starting on the 7th and 12th row from the center/starting point of the face about the width of the nose apart.
Eyes: I used felt for the eyes, two circles about the size of pencil erasers. You can use buttons, embroider them on, etc. Glue/attach them to the sides of the nose about 1 row/stitch away.

Honeycomb Shawl ~ Free Crochet Pattern

This shawl can be worked in any yarn weight and made to any size, using any size hook. Enjoy!

 

Materials

Yarn weight is not important in this pattern; just use a hook size that will work with your yarn weight and create a fabric you like
-For the sample show:
-Worsted weight yarn, approximately 419 yards of the main color and 105 yards for the border

-J hook / 6mm

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Stitches Used

Chain

Single Crochet
Half Double Crochet

Double Crochet
Front post SC (FPSC)
Front post and back post DC (FPDC / BPDC)

Gauge

Gauge is not important for this pattern. Work with a hook size that will work with your yarn.
-For the sample show:

1" = 3 stitches x 1DC and 1 SC row

Pattern

This pattern is worked from the bottom/tip of the shawl to the top/wider end of the shawl. You can make it as big or as small as you like and can stop at any point of the pattern. The shawl shown has a total of 30 open space rows. 

Body 

1. 2 SC in magic circle =2

2. Chain 3(this will always count as a stitch) and turn. DC in the same stitch. 2 DC in the next =4
This is the right side

3. Chain 1 and turn. 2 SC in the first stitch, 1 sc in each following stitches until the last. 2 SC in the last stitch = 6 

4. Chain 3 and turn. DC in the same stitch. DC in the next stitch. Chain 2, skip 2 stitches and DC in each following until the last. 2 DC in the last stitch =8

5. Chain 1 and turn. 2 SC in the first stitch, 1 sc in each stitch and 2 SC in each chain 2 space until the last stitch. 2 SC in the last stitch. REPEAT FOR EVERY ODD ROW

6. Chain 5. Skip 1 stitch. DC in the next 6 stitches. Chain 2. Skip the next stitch and DC in the last =12

8. Chain 3 and turn. DC in the same stitch. DC in the next 5. Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 5 stitches. 2 DC in the last. =16

10. Chain 3 and turn. DC in the same stitch. DC in the next 3 stitches. Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 6. Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 3. 2 DC in the last. =20

12. Chain 3 and turn. DC in the same stitch. DC in the next stitch. (Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 6) x 2. Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next. 2 DC in the last.

14. Chain 5. Skip 1 stitch. (DC in the next 6 stitches. Chain 2 and skip the next 2 stitches) x 2. DC in the next 6 stitches. Chain 2, skip 1 stitch and DC in the last

16. Chain 3 and turn. DC in the same stitch. DC in the next 5. (Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 6) x 2. Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 5 stitches. 2 DC in the last.

18. Chain 3 and turn. DC in the same stitch. DC in the next 3 stitches. (Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 6) x 3.  Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 3. 2 DC in the last.

* Continue to repeat rows 12-19(ending with an numbered row) to make the shawl as big as you like. The repetition of sections inside parenthesis increase by 2 with each additional pattern repeat.

Work 2 rows of HDC to finish the main body of the shawl.  Make 2 HDC in the first and last stitch of each row

Edging

1. With right side facing connect yarn to the corner on your left and chain 3. DC in same space. Work down the side of the shawl evenly by DC in every row or so, there is no exact number. The shawl and edge should lay flat/relaxed. I averaged 1 DC in each SC row and 2 DC in each DC row. 2 DC in each of the 2 tip stitches. Continue to DC up the other side of the shawl until you reach the last space, then 2 DC into that.

2. Chain 3(this counts as a stitch) and turn. BPDC in the next. Alternate between DC and BPDC down the side until you reach the middle two tip stitches. 2 DC in each stitch. Continue to alternate DC and BPDC up the other side of the shawl.

3. Chain 3 and turn. FPDC in each previously BPDC stitch and DC in each DC stitch. This will create ridges along the edging one the right side of the shawl. 2 DC in each of the middle 2 tip stitches. Continue up the other side of the shawl in the same fashion. If you would like your edging to be wider repeat rows 2 and 3.

4. Chain 1 and turn. 1 SC in each DC and 1 BPSC in each previous FPDC. Continue all around the shawl and finish off. * The stitch used for the edging may tend to curl a bit. Block if desired.