Cute Pig Amigurumi - Free Crochet Pattern

Hey all, i made up this cute amiguurmi pig pattern in honor of my son's second birthday who seems to be really be into pigs at the moment. Enjoy! 

The pattern is worked in the round, specially because of this i really suggest using a stitch marker(my favorite way to mark rows is with a different color of scrap yarn). A few parts for this pattern are also worked in a magic circle(if you're not familiar check out this great youtube tutorial) but you can easily begin with your preferred method.

Gauge is not important for this project but you do want to use a hook small enough that will create a tight fabric which won’t have holes between the stitches and the stuffing won’t show through. For the sample I used worsted weight yarn/red heart super saver and an F Size hook. You will of course need a type of stuffing, felt or whatever you want to use for the eyes and a needle to sew the pieces together(apart from yarn and hook).

Body
1. 6 in magic circle -6
2. Inc all -12
3. Inc all -24
4. (sc 3, inc 1) x 6 -30
5. (sc 4, inc 1) x6 -36
6. (sc 5, inc 1)x6  -42
7. sc all -42
8. sc all
9. sc all
10. sc all
11. sc all
12. sc all
13. sc all
14. sc all
15. sc all
16. sc all
17. sc all
18. sc all
19. sc all - 42
20. (sc 5, dec 1) x 6 -36
21. (sc 4, dec 1) x6 -30
22. (sc 3, dec 1) x 6 -24
Stuff body as you go
23. Dec all -12
24. Dec all -6
25. Dec until there is no longer a hole. Do not cut yarn and start on TAIL

Tail
1. Slip stitch the two center stitches closed and chain 5
2. Sc 3 in the 2nd chain from hook and sc 3 in each of the remainder 3 stitches
3. Finish off, leave tail to sew to the starting point

Nose
1. Chain 4. SC in the 2nd and 3rd stitch from the hook.
SC 3 in the last chain and turn to start working down the other side of the chain.
SC 1 in the next 2 stitches and slip stitch to the the beginning(the slip stitch forms the final stitch) -8
2. Chain 1 and sc in the back loop of each stitch. Slip stitch to the beginning stitch -8
3. Chain 1 and TURN working back on the row you just completed. SC in the next 5 stitches. Finish off, leaving tail to sew on body

Ears (make 2)
These are made flat, chain(as indicated) and turn on every row
1. Chain 2. SC 2 in the second stitch from hook -2
2. Chain 1 and increase all -4
3.Chain 1, SC all -4
4. Chain 1, SC all -4
5. Chain 1, SC all -4
6. Chain 1, SC all. Finish off and leave tail to sew on body. -4

Legs (make 4)
1. 6 in magic circle -6
2. (sc 2, 1 inc) x 2 -8 
3. SC all -8
4. SC all -8
5. (sc 2, 1 dec) x2 -6
Finish off and leave tail to sew on body

Finishing
Nose: Add details on nose(nostrils) and stuff lightly. Sew one row under the middle/starting point of the face with the wider rim of the nose on the bottom.
Ears: Sew on the 6th or 7th row away from the center/starting point of the face about 4 stitches apart
Legs: I didn't stuff the legs so they would lay flat. Sew to the bottom of the body starting on the 7th and 12th row from the center/starting point of the face about the width of the nose apart.
Eyes: I used felt for the eyes, two circles about the size of pencil erasers. You can use buttons, embroider them on, etc. Glue/attach them to the sides of the nose about 1 row/stitch away.

Honeycomb Shawl ~ Free Crochet Pattern

This shawl can be worked in any yarn weight and made to any size, using any size hook. Enjoy!

 

Materials

Yarn weight is not important in this pattern; just use a hook size that will work with your yarn weight and create a fabric you like
-For the sample show:
-Worsted weight yarn, approximately 419 yards of the main color and 105 yards for the border

-J hook / 6mm

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Stitches Used

Chain

Single Crochet
Half Double Crochet

Double Crochet
Front post SC (FPSC)
Front post and back post DC (FPDC / BPDC)

Gauge

Gauge is not important for this pattern. Work with a hook size that will work with your yarn.
-For the sample show:

1" = 3 stitches x 1DC and 1 SC row

Pattern

This pattern is worked from the bottom/tip of the shawl to the top/wider end of the shawl. You can make it as big or as small as you like and can stop at any point of the pattern. The shawl shown has a total of 30 open space rows. 

Body 

1. 2 SC in magic circle =2

2. Chain 3(this will always count as a stitch) and turn. DC in the same stitch. 2 DC in the next =4
This is the right side

3. Chain 1 and turn. 2 SC in the first stitch, 1 sc in each following stitches until the last. 2 SC in the last stitch = 6 

4. Chain 3 and turn. DC in the same stitch. DC in the next stitch. Chain 2, skip 2 stitches and DC in each following until the last. 2 DC in the last stitch =8

5. Chain 1 and turn. 2 SC in the first stitch, 1 sc in each stitch and 2 SC in each chain 2 space until the last stitch. 2 SC in the last stitch. REPEAT FOR EVERY ODD ROW

6. Chain 5. Skip 1 stitch. DC in the next 6 stitches. Chain 2. Skip the next stitch and DC in the last =12

8. Chain 3 and turn. DC in the same stitch. DC in the next 5. Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 5 stitches. 2 DC in the last. =16

10. Chain 3 and turn. DC in the same stitch. DC in the next 3 stitches. Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 6. Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 3. 2 DC in the last. =20

12. Chain 3 and turn. DC in the same stitch. DC in the next stitch. (Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 6) x 2. Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next. 2 DC in the last.

14. Chain 5. Skip 1 stitch. (DC in the next 6 stitches. Chain 2 and skip the next 2 stitches) x 2. DC in the next 6 stitches. Chain 2, skip 1 stitch and DC in the last

16. Chain 3 and turn. DC in the same stitch. DC in the next 5. (Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 6) x 2. Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 5 stitches. 2 DC in the last.

18. Chain 3 and turn. DC in the same stitch. DC in the next 3 stitches. (Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 6) x 3.  Chain 2 and skip two stitches. DC in the next 3. 2 DC in the last.

* Continue to repeat rows 12-19(ending with an numbered row) to make the shawl as big as you like. The repetition of sections inside parenthesis increase by 2 with each additional pattern repeat.

Work 2 rows of HDC to finish the main body of the shawl.  Make 2 HDC in the first and last stitch of each row

Edging

1. With right side facing connect yarn to the corner on your left and chain 3. DC in same space. Work down the side of the shawl evenly by DC in every row or so, there is no exact number. The shawl and edge should lay flat/relaxed. I averaged 1 DC in each SC row and 2 DC in each DC row. 2 DC in each of the 2 tip stitches. Continue to DC up the other side of the shawl until you reach the last space, then 2 DC into that.

2. Chain 3(this counts as a stitch) and turn. BPDC in the next. Alternate between DC and BPDC down the side until you reach the middle two tip stitches. 2 DC in each stitch. Continue to alternate DC and BPDC up the other side of the shawl.

3. Chain 3 and turn. FPDC in each previously BPDC stitch and DC in each DC stitch. This will create ridges along the edging one the right side of the shawl. 2 DC in each of the middle 2 tip stitches. Continue up the other side of the shawl in the same fashion. If you would like your edging to be wider repeat rows 2 and 3.

4. Chain 1 and turn. 1 SC in each DC and 1 BPSC in each previous FPDC. Continue all around the shawl and finish off. * The stitch used for the edging may tend to curl a bit. Block if desired.

Fade to Blue Toddler Vest ~ Free Crochet Pattern

This is a very simple pattern that can be made in so many different color combinations! I personally love the fade effect. I made it for my son who wears 2T/24 month size, yet the pattern should be pretty easy to adapt. I would suggest using a piece of clothing to measure up against if altering size.

Materials

Worsted weight yarn in 4 complimentary colors

G hook / 4mm

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Buttons; i used 12

Stitches Used

Chain

Single Crochet

Double Crochet

Gauge

1" = 3 stitches & 2 rows

Gauge for stitches per inch is most important. When row count is given, go by the measurement or what is closest to that as opposed to number of rows listed; i found that row gauge differs a lot more than stitch gauge. 

Pattern

This pattern is worked from the bottom to the top. If you want a fading effect like the pictured projects, start with the darkest color and work up to the lightest.

Body

With color #1

-Chain 79

-DC in the 4th chain(this chain 3 will NOT count as a stitch) and a DC in each remaining chain = 76 stitches (plus the beginning chain 3). The lenght should measure about 23.5”

-Chain 3 and DC in each stitch = 76 stitches (plus the beginning chain 3)

-Repeat the last row 2 more times. You should have a total of 4 rows in your first color. 

With color #2

-Chain 3 and DC in each stitch = 76 stitches (plus the beginning chain 3)

-Repeat the last row 3 more times. You should have a total of 4 rows in your second color.

With color #3

-Chain 3 and DC in each stitch = 76 stitches (plus the beginning chain 3)

-Repeat the last row 3 more times. You should have a total of 4 rows in your third color.

With color #4

-Chain 3 and DC in each stitch = 76 stitches (plus the beginning chain 3)

-Repeat the last row 1 more time or until the worked piece measures 8" from cast on.

Front Left
From here on the chain 3 at the beginning of each row WILL count as a stitch EXCEPT on the 2 edges of the project we have already established.
-Chain 3, DC in the first 7 stitches.
-Chain 3(this WILL count as a stitch on this side), DC in the following 6 = 7DC
-Chain 3, DC in the first 7 stitches.
-Repeat the last two rows 3 more times, you should have 9 rows worked or about 13.5". Leave tail long enough to sew the shoulder together(7 stitches) and cut yarn.

Back
Connect yarn to the body at the stitch next to the Front Left piece we have just completed. Chain 3(this WILL count as a stitch on both sides of the back) and DC for 35 stitches = 36 stitches
-Chain 3, DC for 35 = 36 stitches
-Repeat the last row for 7 more times. You should have 9 rows worked or about 13.5".  Leave tail long enough to sew the shoulder together(7 stitches) and cut yarn.

Front Right
Connect yarn to the body at the stitch next to the BACK piece we have just completed. Chain 3(this WILL count as a stitch on this side) and DC for 32 stitches = 33 stitches

-Chain 3(this will NOT count as a stitch on this edge), DC in the next 33 stitches. 

-Chain 3, DC in the next 32 stitches = 33 

-Repeat the last two rows 3 more times. You should have 9 rows worked or about 13.5".  Finish off and cut yarn.

Finishing Off

Fold over the thin edge and align to the back. Sew 7 stitches with tail.

Fold over the front right and align with the back. Sew 7 stitches with tail.

The front right side should overlap the left side on about 3-4 stitches. Sew buttons along the short side, the spaces between the DC will serves as button holes on the other side. I put a button about every 2 rows and used the appropriate color in the pictured projects. Because we are using the DC spaces as button holes, it's easy to adjust and tighten or loosen up the sweater as you see fit. I also found that the neck hole is large enough to easily fit over the head instead of having to actually undo all the buttons every time. Enjoy, i hope your kiddo enjoys wearing this!

Triforce Cowl ~ Free Knit Pattern

First pattern of 2018! This is a very basic cowl, the triforce motif is the real design in this piece. If you are not aware of what the 'triforce' is, then you're probably not a Zelda fan(one of my favorite video game series). The triforce is the main source of power and what the good and bad are seeking in most of the games. The 3 triangles represent power, wisdom and courage. I would suggest checking them out!

Originally i wanted to post only the chart but it seems like Ravelry has stricter restrictions on charts nowadays, so i decided to write the pattern to this cowl and post it that way. With that said, my intention was to make the chart accessible so anyone could use it on anything. It would make an awesome baby blanket for example, or on finger-less mitts(which i'm tempted on doing). 

Triforce Cowl

Materials

Worsted weight yarn 

US 6/ 4mm needles

Stitch markers

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Gauge

1" = 4 stitches

Please check gauge, mine is very loose.

Chart

The chart is 14 stitches x 12 rows

Pattern

-Cast on 84 stitches; work in the round

-Work 2x2 ribbing for 6 rows or approximately 1"

-Knit for 4 rows. Place stitch markers between every chart(every 14 stitches), there should be 6 sections

-Work chart on 1, 3 and 5th section/chart space and knit in the other sections

-Knit for 3 rows

-Work chart on 2, 4 and 6th section/chart space and knit in the other sections

-Knit for 3 rows

-Work chart on 1, 3 and 5th section/chart space and knit in the other sections

-Knit for 4 rows

-Work 2x2 ribbing for 6 rows or approximately 1"

-Cast off

*The pattern is being tested at this time, i will update/make corrections accordingly. If there's an error please let me know! :)

New Year, New Blog!

It's been quite a while since i've posted something new. I took some time to browse my last posts and they make me so happy and a little sad as well, that it stopped so suddenly. My videos have also taken a break until more recently(check out my YT channel for anything new). Things got left at a standstill once my son was born, so it's been about 2 years ~ he turns 2 in April. That seems impossible, it's really true that time flies! Now that i have a very busy and curios toddler to look after and share my time with, i probably won't be posting my current wips or videos as i once did. However this year i plan to focus on writing patterns or coming up with new techniques/ideas which i will be sharing here. My goal is one a month, so hoping that 12 this year will be the minimum! I have my first design, a motif inspired by one of my favorite game series, almost ready to go(it will be free and posted in Ravelry apart from posting here as well). Look for that in the near future! :)